Installing RAM, DDR2, DDR and RDRAM
Installing Video Cards (PCI Express and AGP) and Modems
If you 're looking to replace your power supply, see the step-by-step illustrated guide on how to install a power supply. |
Full size version and instructions for the |
The 4th edition of Build Your Own PC features three different cases and how to work in them. For the first build, a Pentium 4 LGA in Socket 775, I purchased an Antec midtower at the local CompUSA. Cases are one component that I really recommend buying locally when possible, as the cheaper mail-order cases are often so flimsy that you can barely work in them. Cheap cases universally ship with cheap power supplies, while Antec cases come with high quality Antec power supplies. The quickest way to get a feel for the quality of both the case and the power supply is by weight. Weigh more, pay more, weigh less, pay less. Quality cases use thicker sheet metal and don't skimp on the quantity, and quality power supplies don't short you on copper, ferrites and heatsinks.
The second build in the 4th edition is an Athlon 64 in a generic case I bought through mail-order, based on the pictures from the vendor website. I purchased the case specifically to illustrate an alternate type of adapter card lock-down in the book, but unfortunately, the quality was awful. The first thing I did was replace the power supply with a 400 Watt Codegen (again from CompUSA), which weighed about four times as much as the one it shipped with. The I/O core shield could barely be described as foil, it was more like metalized paper, but the build was a good example of making the best of the materials at hand:-)
The third build in the book is a Socket 478 Pentium 4 in a full tower case. The reason we went with a full tower was to have the room to illustrate some RAID arrangements and a SCSI disk subsystem. The tower features two removable drive cages, as opposed to the single 3.5" drive cage you'll find in most mid-towers. In all three cases, the book illustrates how to open up the case and prepare for motherboard installation.
The chapter about buying and purchasing components talks some about sizing power supplies, which is frankly a bit of a black art. It's easy to just overestimate your requirements, but you'll be paying more for capacity you may never need. The main power drain in any PC is the motherboard (with the CPU and RAM mounted), and the motherboard manufacturer will provide nominal and maximum power requirements in the documentation, which it wouldn't hurt to look at on their website before actually purchasing the motherboard and getting a surprise.
We install additional case fans as necessary to cope with the cooling requirements of our state-of-the-art processors, always stressing that you have to keep airflow moving through the case. You can't have your fans blowing in opposite directions or all you'll do is push a lot of hot air around the case.
The illustrated guide can't be updated due to my no-compete contract with McGraw-Hill. Click on B/W thumbnails for fullsize color images, use "Back" button on browser to return.
| Minitower cases are usually chosen by build-it-yourself-ers, in part because the lower cost, and in part because they really are a better design to work on. Make sure the case you buy has a removable motherboard pan. The unique feature of the ATX style case is the large rectangular opening on the right side, where all of the motherboard mounted I/O ports will be accessed. |
Standard ATX Mintower |
Removing cover screws |
The first step to building a PC is removing the cover from the standard minitower case. Three to six screws hold the cover to the frame. The easiest way to identify which screws to take out is to note which screws heads are completely surrounded by the painted edge of the cover. |
| Once the screws are removed, the cover may be very stubborn about coming off. Use both hands, placing the fingers of each along the top and side of the cover, then push with your thumbs against the back of the case. If the cover doesn't want to release, try lifting a little at the back, top edge, which helps free the sides of the cover from the channels they slide in. |
Freeing cover from case |
Removing motherboard pan |
One of the best features of the tower type case for building a PC is the removeable motherboard pan, which allows you to mount the motherboard and components without obstructed reach or view from the case frame or installed components. You can usually hook up the power, LEDs, switches and ribbon cables, all before screwing the pan back in. |
| In order to remove the drive cage for the 3-1/2" drives (floppies and hard drives), you usually need to first remove the plastic front cover of the case. Check how this is attached before you start prying. This faceplate was held in place by six clusters of spring fingers. Some are held in place by screws from the inside. |
Removing plastic front faceplate |
Case with faceplate removed |
With the faceplate removed, you can see the manufacturer assumes that at least a CD-ROM (5-1/4") and a 1.44MB floppy drive (3-1/2") will be installed in every case, because the openings in the sheet metal would otherwise be potential sources of RF interference. |
| One of the most important steps in building a PC you don't want to forget at this stage is to install the shield for the I/O core. The metal cover shields RF emissions, and frames the ports so that dust and bugs (the insect kind) stay out of your warm and cozy PC. Match the shield plate against the I/O core on your ATX motherboard to make sure it fits and to get the orientation correct. |
Installing the I/O shield |
Installing the I/O shield - Outside view |
The shield is actually little thicker than tin foil, so it can't stand rough handling. On this shield, you can see the pictograph symbols for the device ports, mouse, keyboard, speakers, etc.. Some shields don't have these symbols, but the motherboard should be shipped with a large stick-on map of the port layout. |
| One more look at the I/O shield, properly installed in the case. The only thing that holds the shield in place is the spring force of the folded edges, which press against the sides of the opening. All of the little tabs shown press against the various ports, providing a little structural firmness, and maybe some additional grounding. |
Properly installed shield |
Installing the speaker assembly |
The speaker assembly can actually be left until after the motherboard is installed, but it doesn't hurt to put it in now. Four plastic legs lock into slots in the metal front of the case. The back of the speaker assembly provides supprt for any full length adapter cards you might install later. Almost all new cases come with the speaker pre-insalled, and most motherboards you chose for building your PC will have a peizoelectric speaker on board. |
Step-by-step PC Repair Troubleshooting Techniques and my Starting a Computer Business